Anytime Advent Shawl

This pattern is written to accompany our 24 mini Tencel Skeins Packs which contain 24 minis skein, each 20g/80m. You can substitute any fingering weight yarn that gives 400m per 100g easily into this pattern so it is also perfect for using with an advent set.
You will need;
24x 20g/80m mini skeins of yarn
3.25mm Circular Needles at least 80cm long
10 stitch markers
Needle and scissors
The finished dimensions of this shawl are 90cm x 160cm
Gauge – 28 stitches x 40 rows on 3.5mm needles = 10cm square
Pattern Notes
We will start with ‘yarn2’ and once the shawl is knitted we will go back and pick up the stitches at the cast on edge and use yarn 1 to add a section ending with an I-Cord cast off, so please leave the yarn you want as the first yarn on the shawl until last.
We will be adding 2 I-cord edges as we knit, so every row will begin by knitting the first 3 stitches and slipping the last 3 stiches (with yarn in front) of each row to create this. You can also hide the ends of the yarn created by so many colour changes into the i-cord edge so you don’t need to weave them in as you go.
The longer edges of the shawl are intentionally designed to flare but if you would prefer a more rectangular shape without flare we will also give instructions for this.
The shawl is designed using 6 repeatable pattern blocks, as long as you follow our instructions for the cast on row, sections 23 and 24, and the last worked first section, you can use whichever patterns in whichever order for the middle 20 colours.
If you want to add your own pattern sections just ensure they divide by 400 – so for example 4 or 5 stitch repeating patterns.
All stiches are slipped knitwise – but if you prefer purlwise that’s fine too – just make sure to use the same slip stich all the way through.
The pattern
Cast on section – Cast on 406 stitches, placing a stitch marker after the first 3 stitches, then every 50 stitches, you should then have 3 stitches after the last marker.
Then – K3, K to last SM, S3WYIF
Or to write this out fully – Knit the first 3 stitches, then knit until the last stitch marker. Now move the yarn to the front of your work as is you were going to purl and slip the last 3 stiches.
Repeat this row 11 more time so you have done 12 in total. Now cut the existing yarn and join the next colour – don’t forget not to weave your end in as they will be placed inside the i-cord edge.
The middle sections
Now you can use any of the patterns below, in any order, to complete the next 20 sections of your shawl, changing colour for each new section.
Pattern 1
Row 1: K3, Knit to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 2: K3, (K1,P1)* to last SM, S3WYIF
Or fully –
Row 1: Knit 3, Knit to the last stitch marker, Slip 3 with the yarn in front.
Row 2: Knit 3, Knit 1 then Purl 1 – repeat this until the last stitch marker, slip the last 3 stitches with the yarn in front.
Repeat these 2 rows 6 times each – total 14 rows

Pattern 2
Row 1: K3, Knit to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 2/3/4/5: K3, (K5, P5)* to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 6/7/8/9: K3, (P5, K5)* to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 10/11/12/13: K3, (K5, P5)* to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 14: K3, Purl to last SM, S3WYIF

Pattern 3
Row 1: K3, Knit to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 2: K3, Purl to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 3: K3, Knit to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 4: K3, Purl to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 5: K3, Purl to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 6: K3, Knit to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 7: K3, Purl to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 8: K3, Knit to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 9: K3, Purl to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 10: K3, Knit to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 11: K3, Knit to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 12: K3, Purl to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 13: K3, Knit to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 14: K3, Purl to last SM, S3WYIF

Pattern 4
Row 1: K3, Knit to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 2: K3, (S1, P1)* to last SM, S3WYIF
Repeat these 2 rows until you have worked 14 rows in total.

Pattern 5
Row 1: K3, Knit to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 2: K3, Purl to last SM, S3WYIF
Repeat these 2 rows until you have worked 14 row in total.

Casting Off
Instructions for flared edge (as pictured) –
Row 1-5: K3, Knit to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 6: K3, Knit to end of row – removing the last stitch marker as you pass it – now go to I-cord Bind off
Instructions for a less flared edge –
Row 1,3&5: K3, Knit to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 2&4: K3, (S1, P1)* to last SM, S3WYIF
Row 6: K3, (S1, P1)* to last SM, eremove SM and knit the last 3 stitches. Now go to i-cord bind off.
I-Cord Bind Off
Our i-cord bind off begins slightly differently to a regular i-cord.
Follow these instructions –
Knit the first 2 stitches, now knit the next 2 stitches together through the back of the loop. you now have 3 stitches on you right needle, slip them back onto the left needle and repeat from the beginning.
When you are left with the last 3 stitches on your left needle you will knit the first stitch, knit the last 2 together through the back of the loop then put the back stitch over the front stitch and tie off as normal.

The last section
Now your shawl is off the needles but needs a section adding at the beginning to match your cast off section.
First you will pick up 406 stitches from the cast on edge. Start with the right side of your work facing you and pick up stitches from left to right.
If you followed the Flared instructions you will do the following –
Knit 3 stitches, Purl to the last 3 stitches, Slip last 3 stitches with yarn in front for 5 rows, on row 6 you will Knit the first 3 stitches then purl to the end. Now follow the previous instuctions for the i-cord bind off.
or
If you followed the second instructions for the less flared edge you will do the following –
Row 1,3 &5: Knit the first 3 stitches, Purl to the last 3 stitches, slip the last 3 stitches with the yarn in front.
Row 2&4: K3, (s1,K1)* to last 3 stitches, slip last 3 stitches with yarnin front.
Row 6: K3, (s1,K1)* to last 3 stitches, knit last 3 stitches.
Once you have worked these 6 rows, continue to the i-cord bind off.
Finishing
Thread your ends one at a time through into the side i-cord boarder, pull through and cut the end, pulling back on the i=cord so it disappears inside. We would now recommend blocking your shawl using your preferred method – we prefer damp blocking but steam blocking will also work well.
Abbreviations
K=Knit
P=Purl
SM=Stitch Marker
S=slip
WYIF=with yarn in front
()*=Repeat the part in brackets